A beloved oasis of serenity, the French Lick Resort serves as the go-to place for Midwesterners to escape the trappings of the modern world.
This charming southern Indiana treasure welcomes visitors with a respite unlike any other.
Tucked between two boundary junctures of the Hoosier National Forest, the retreat boasts not just one, but two historic hotels that are listed on the National Historic Register.
The West Baden Springs Hotel is so magnificent that it was called the Eighth Wonder of the World for its awe-inspiring, 200-foot domed atrium (photo, above), the largest self-supporting dome in the world at the time. Built in 1902 on grounds established in 1855, this grande dame radiates comfortable ambiance while capturing 21st-century modernism, mostly due to its complete restoration less than 20 years ago. It boasts 243 luxury guest rooms and suites that encircle the magical atrium, highlighted by a circular medallion and pendant that hangs from the dome’s apex and changes colors. Smartly placed recliners and love seats in the atrium draw visitors to relaxingly look up and enjoy the show, much like stargazers.
The French Lick Springs Hotel was established in 1845 and features a spa wing built in 1901. It may sound contradictory, but this hotel is a beautiful behemoth. With a massive 442 guest rooms and suites, many of which are impressively spacious, the hotel features a two-story barrel-vaulted grand lobby that is stunningly dressed up with gilded gold leaf, murals, faux marble columns, and decorative ceramic tile floors. The colossal hotel majestically blends its fascinating history with modern amenities — namely a spa (note: West Baden Springs also offers a spa) and still-new Vegas-style casino. A six-lane bowling alley (Pluto’s Alley) and kids activity center are highlights, as well.
Both hotels feature on-the-premises fine dining and affordable fare for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and late night. Want to enjoy the amenities of both hotels? No problem, a 24/7 trolley service between the two is offered.
Who wants to stay all cooped up on vacation? The resort boasts a plethora of outdoor options.
Four golf courses — the breathtaking Pete Dye Course, the historic Donald Ross Course (built in 1917 and restored in the mid-2000s), the nine-hole Valley Links Course, and the brand-new nine-hole Sand Creek Course — entice veteran, novice, and in-between golfers. The Pete Dye course has attracted Senior PGA tournaments.
Riding stables, carriage rides, bicycle rentals, walking paths, and hiking-biking trails around the beautiful grounds are major highlights and lovely options. The French Lick Scenic Railway offers a 20-mle ride past limestone outcroppings and through parts of the Hoosier National Forest and a 2,200-foot tunnel.
The French Lick Springs Hotel hooks into shops along a long concourse, which hooks into an event center, which leads into the casino. Major music acts perform at the event center.
Culinary events tempt visitors, including hayride-centric Chuckwagon Cookouts, wine-and-canvas offerings, afternoon teas, and food/drink-themed train rides.
For shopaholics, the town of French Lick offers cute stores and restaurants with the option of navigating shockingly steep hills.
But, getting back to the “oasis of serenity” characteristic of French Lick Resort, a trip here would be wasted without appreciating the historic roots. Be sure to stroll the grounds of both hotels and seek out the famous mineral springs that drew people from around the United States for its health benefits. Enjoy the beautiful, classic gardens outside the West Baden Springs Hotel. Make sure to delight in rocking chairs set up on the spacious porches of both properties.
Channel your ancestors and appreciate the history. Gaze at the photos of all the famous U.S. presidents, athletes, musicians, and actors who have stayed here. Take one of the several historical tours to learn how tomato juice was invented here and how Al Capone hid out here.
Just off the formal gardens of the West Baden Springs Hotel is the reborn East Park. Opened just two years ago via excavation, East Park features a baseball field that is located on the same footprint as an original field that attracted Major League Baseball teams for spring training. Signs along the path in the park educate walkers of a multilevel bicycle track from the early 1900s, the spot were boxer Joe Louis trained, and the discovery of a long-lost spring basin. A brand-new pickleball court opened there this spring.
Indeed, one of French Lick Resorts’ strengths is its balance of old and new. Another example is the recent facelift of the West Baden Springs Hotel’s dome after a hailstorm; the renovation included a new indoor carpet. Also, the six-story, 71-room Valley Tower Hotel opened in recent years between the two historic hotels. Adjacent to the event center and casino, it features a welcoming sports bar.
Coming soon, the 108-year-old Billiard & Bowling Pavilion on the West Baden Springs Hotel grounds is coming back to life. The refurbished venue will include six lanes of bowling, billiard tables, a pizzeria, and bar.
This summer, the resort features events such as wine and canvas, a wine tasting scenic train ride, “dive-in movies” (movies at the indoor pool), and much more.
A trip to French Lick Resort is always special, but planning your trip around a holiday really ratchets up the wow factor. Whether it’s the holiday trees and decor in December or the fantastic fireworks during the Fourth of July, French Lick Resort won’t disappoint.
During Easter and Mother’s Day, the West Baden Springs Hotel offers an amazing buffet in the elegant atrium that shouldn’t be missed (photo, above, with the atrium’s dome reflected in the spoon). The royal treatment includes plump fresh jumbo shrimp, crab cakes, sweet and savory starters, brunch classics, delectable entrees, pastry-chef-made desserts, and a chocolate fondue fountain. A similar Thanksgiving dinner is also held in the atrium.
A visit to French Lick Resort is a time-honored event where the glory of yesteryear radiates the present day and brightens the future.